A panoply of eccentric biographical data RE: chefdom’s fretful ramen master.
HE IS the Virginia-raised son of Korean immigrants—educated in Vienna, a suburb of Washington, D.C., but well acquainted with Richmond, where his father had a business. Culinarily, this background has come to bear on such Chang creations as his Honeycrisp-apple kimchi with jowl bacon and Noodle Bar’s fried chicken served two ways, southern-style and Korean-style.
HIS FAVORITE extra-vocational activity is fly-fishing, which satisfies him, paradoxically, “because it’s constant dissatisfaction.”
HE HAS spent much of his life deliberately evading anything that smacks of normalcy. Of late, however, he finds himself thinking, “Man, normal might be really nice right now.”